It's no wonder I can't get anything written these days. I started off in January with a whole heap of good intentions. Having published a book every year since 2014, I was convinced I'd have a new novel or travel memoir (or even both) out by June, but it wasn't to be.
The first thing that came along to disrupt my writing life was the delightful arrival of Zoe, the spaniel. All those hours spent walking when I could be writing, but would I exchange her for my pen? Not a bit of it. However, then came the broken wrist I've mentioned before, a more dramatic limitation than my little pooch. I have to say this really set me back a lot and it was more than two months before I could type again. Once I got going, though, another hindrance cropped up: research.
When writing about travel within Europe it's impossible to ignore history, wherever you are. I'm currently working with two books, both of which involve lots of fact checking and research, but the rabbit hole I burrowed my way into yesterday turned out to be more than usually absorbing and unusual.
I'm writing about the waterways. Well, there's nothing unusual about that, I hear you say, and you'd be right, but in this case it's led me to a whole new appreciation of that small, power-hungry, Italian Frenchman, Napoleon. Without him, the canal through-routes from Belgium into France might never have been completed. It was he who pushed for the Canal de Saint Quentin to be finished, a project that connected Paris by water to the coalfields of Belgium. It was originally conceived in the 1730s but abandoned due to other political priorities. Napoleon resurrected the scheme in 1801 and, with his drive and support, it was opened in 1810.
The Hennie H on the Canal de Saint Quentin in 2017 |
Waiting our turn to enter the Riqueval tunnel in 2017 |
Another bit of burrowing was needed to clarify the history of the Riqueval tunnel on the Canal de Saint Quentin. The tunnel is certainly the longest currently in use in Europe and at 5.67 kilometres long (about 3.5 miles), it is quite a daunting prospect for boaters as it isn't possible to navigate it under your own steam. In fact, it never has been, but since 1910, barges and boats have been hauled through the tunnel by an electric tugboat running on a chain. This video shows a tug pulling barges into the tunnel entrance.
It takes 2.5 hours to be pulled through, normally in convoy with numerous other boats and barges. Engines have to be switched off to avoid an accumulation of fumes in the tunnel, a precaution born out of past tragedies when, during the steam tug era of the 1860s, barge crews in one convoy died from smoke inhalation, despite the ventilation holes in the tunnel. This information was only available on the Dutch Wikipedia site and not on the English or French sites, so it took me extra time to find it in that part of the rabbit warren that is the internet.
The Hennie H in the tunnel |
But digging into Canal de Saint Quentin (sorry) led me to other fascinating discoveries. This canal was just part of Napoleon's vision for expanding the watery networks. He also initiated and saw the realisation of the connection between the Scheldt (Schelde in Dutch, Escaut in French) and the Scarpe, the river that runs from Arras through Douai and beyond. The connecting canal was the Canal de la Sensée, originally Censée, between Corbehem on the Scarpe near Douai and Le Bassin Rond at the junction with the Scheldt.
Boats and liveaboard barges on the Bassin Rond I took this photo during a visit to the area in 2013 |
Finding out about the development of Le Bassin Rond and where its name originated had me diving down yet another burrow and brushing up my French to read sections of a book on the history of the Sensée canal. I was curious because there was nothing round about the Bassin Rond as we knew it, but the book explained that before the canal was widened to its current proportions, there'd been a circular basin at the junction with the Scheldt with three locks leading from it, allowing barges to turn easily from one lock into the others. The place still retains the name, despite the fact all that remains of the original Bassin Rond is the old arm of the canal that forms a wonderful lake where pleasure craft and liveaboard boats can lie. I haven't yet found out when the basin and locks were filled in, but I'm still reading.
The current Bassin Rond 'lake', the former Canal de la Sensée |
The houses alongside the old arm are gradually sinking into the marshy land, giving them a quaint, wonky appearance |
All my research has resulted in more reading than I ever intended, accompanied by frequent exclamations at what I've learned, but it hasn't prompted an equivalent amount of writing. I can so easily get lost in the fascination of the history that I sometimes think I'm more of a researcher than a writer. Will I get a book out this year? I'm not sure about that, but I'm enjoying the information-gathering process.
However, I haven't only been running down rabbit holes. My DIY projects are still in progress and I'm happy to report I've made new curtains for the Hennie H. I'm also busy making a new entrance hatch to replace the old one which has suffered irreparably from the assaults of the winter weather and I'm still chipping away at that old wall at the Crumbly Cottage. It's all designed to keep me balanced and busy, isn't it?
That's all for now, allemaal. I hope you're having a good July, whether it's a warm or a cold one. Till next time.
What an interesting blog Val. It's made me appreciate how much research goes into your books. I can understand the fascination of it as one thing leads to another! The canal network is just marvellous and I really enjoyed watching the video of the barges being pulled through the Riqueval Tunnel. What a feat of engineering! Glad you're finding time to do jobs on the Hennie H, Crumbly cottage wall as well as walking with Zoe. I hope she's fully recovered now x
ReplyDeleteThank you, Rebecca. I love the history of this area and especially the waterways. It’s fascinating. I think it’s amazing that the system for hauling the barges through the tunnel has been there for more than a century. Like the boat lifts at La Louvière, they show that these old systems are still sturdy and reliable, plus it feels like living history. :)
DeleteAs for Zoe, she’s back to her normal cheeky self, which is a huge relief. Xxx
Well did you ever, old Nap was quite a far-sighted guy wasn’t he? He also fancied building the Suez Canal but never quite got round to it… rabbit holes are so fascinating Val, keep on burrowing my friend xx
ReplyDeleteHe really was, Lally. All sorts of complicated and narcissistic too, but a great overseer. We can be very thankful to him for his enthusiasm about the waterways.
DeleteVal, this a great post, as usual. Research keeps us digging deeper. So glad to know that Napoleon left his innovations behind all these years later. The two and half hour tugboat pull takes a lot of patience. Also, just know that whenever your books come out, we will be waiting!
ReplyDeleteThank you, dear Lynn. I can’t say I enjoyed it when we did it, but in the early days before tug boats, teams of men would pull the convoys through, It took them up to fourteen hours! They used pit ponies for a while after that, but they also took a long time because they could only take such small steps on the very narrow towpath.
DeleteVal, you are an amazing person and an amazingly well-balanced one! You are a joy. Your pictures are exceptional. As for research, having worked on a newspaper - I understand! I lost myself in many tunnels, especially the historical ones! Thanks for another great blog. (Steph)
ReplyDeleteBless you, Steph. I know you love all the historical research as well. You do a lot for your own books!
DeleteHi Val, I always enjoy your blogs, but this one has been even more fascinating than usual. I never knew that Napoleon was such an interesting man and being a driving force for the construction of those canals was not something that was taught when I was at school. No wonder you are diving down so many rabbit holes! 😁 So very happy that little Zoe now fit and well again. I just hope that Zoe, you and Koos are not suffering with the extreme heat Europe is having to endure at the moment. Take care, keep cool. 🥰
ReplyDeleteThank you so much, Lorraine. I'm so pleased you enjoyed the post. Napoleon was a man of much more depth than we usually hear about. He really cared about improving the lot of the French people and his interest in the increasing the canal network was all part of that drive. We are not having very hot weather at the moment, but it has been. It's just pleasant in the mid twenties at the moment and has been so since storm Poly. Quite a relief, really. xxx
DeleteHow interesting! And yes, researching is sometimes more and more reading. Wonderful blogpost!
ReplyDeleteI know you know how the research thing works, Kathleen. You do so much of it yourself! Thank you so much for commenting! xx
DeleteI completely understand the absorbing nature of research, Val, and spend countless hours doing the same thing. Gosh, though, what a fascinating journey of learning you've been on. When you do get to publish, your book will be all the better for it. Thank you, and well done for coping with all the traumas you've had this year. Thank goodness you have your golden girl better again. xx
ReplyDeleteAh, Beth, I only mention the hold ups as an excuse for not getting on with it, but in truth, the research has taken me a lot more time than usual, purely because it's so very interesting. :) Thank you so much for your comment. I know what traumas you've had to cope with and I'm very grateful you've taken the time to read my blog. XXX
DeleteFascinating, Val! All the best with the books.
ReplyDeleteThank you so much, and apologies for the late response!
DeleteGetting lost in research is very familiar! Fascinating stuff about the canal network and Napoleon. He seems to have been a busy sort of chap? 😉
ReplyDeleteHe was, Aidan. Much busier with civil engineering projects than most people realise. Thank you so much for commenting and sorry I'm a bit tardy in replying.
DeleteI can forgive a certain level of tardiness but please be more careful in the future. 😂😂😂
DeleteYessir!! 🤣 🤣 🤣
DeleteHi Val - what an interesting set of rabbit holes you've been down - and so fascinating ... I need to re-read etc ... cheers Hilary
ReplyDelete