Rotterdam's forgotten corner

When I drive up to Rotterdam each week, I have to leave my little car some distance from the Oude Haven because I have no parking permit to put it in any of the adjoining streets. The place I usually leave it is in a neighbourhood called De Esch (pronounced 'Ess') near the university, which is something of a forgotten corner of Rotterdam, although I don't suppose the residents would agree. However, it's one of those places at the end of a tram line and it struck me the other day that at De Esch, everything is a little different. 

What makes it special is the mixture of an old harbour, waterside beaches, a wealth of green space, a nature reserve and last but possibly most, a beautiful old water tower. I've been going to De Esch ever since I first moved to Rotterdam. I used to walk there regularly with Sindy (my dog). We loved strolling through the untamed wilderness of the nature reserve where I was aware small creatures lived from the rustling in the undergrowth and hedgerows. It felt as if we were far from the city. We also enjoyed going to the little riverside beach, where I'd throw sticks for her into the water. In those days, few people went to De Esch; we were usually alone and it was, you might say, an undiscovered treasure. I could sit on the sand and watch the huge container barges ploughing up and downstream while Sindy splashed happily in the water. For me, it was a place of peace.

From a historical perspective, De Esch is also interesting. It has the oldest existing water tower in the Netherlands, which is also one of the largest. Built between 1871 and 1873 next to a small harbour, its reservoir held a million litres of water – which is substantial by anyone's standards – and the pipeline ran from the tower to the city.

Designed by one CB van der Tak, it is a meld of different styles, including Romanesque Revival and Neo-Renaissance, if that means anything to you. Whatever the labels, it's a magnificent building and a real landmark. When it was in use as a water tower, the water company workers used to live below the reservoir, but in 1986, the building was renovated and the accommodation was replaced by workshops while the reservoir itself was converted to offices. A very nice restaurant now occupies the ground floor section. 

The photo below is from the 19th century when it was still relatively new and the next one is a recent image. I pinched them both from Wikipedia, so credit goes to their website. I know I have my own photos, but I can't seem to find them anywhere, which is frustrating. Incidentally, the harbour is home to a couple of liveaboard barges, the university rowing club and a floating water taxi pontoon. It's another place I like to go and sit to watch the river traffic go by.

The water tower as it used to look

(Thanks to Wikipedia)

 

And this is how it looks now

(Thanks again to Wikipedia)

Some years ago, Koos and I walked all round the tower and behind it there are a number of rectangular reservoirs, each with its own small pump-house. I don't actually know whether they are contemporary with the tower; they certainly look the same age. I also don't know if they stored the water to be pumped up to the water tower, or whether it was a treatment works. Maybe someone reading this blog will know because I've been unable to find out so far. All the same, they are very charming and it's a fascinating place to wander around. The photo below is also courtesy of an open site on the internet. Unfortunately, the photographer's name was not given.

One of the reservoirs and pump houses. 

The other thing I like about De Esch is that the last stretch of the tram line escapes from the built-up city environs and dives into a lovely green belt that leads to its terminus. This broad expanse of grass, a veritable sward, is lined by apartment buildings, but the amount of space between the tracks and the flats gives an almost rural impression. I once forgot to get off the tram at my stop and had to stay on until almost the end of the line, but I was glad I did it. I'd never have known what a pleasant walk it was back to the university otherwise.

The tram disappears off into the green belt.

This is a screen capture from street view

So that's De Esch, an unusual but special place. In fact, I was standing where the van in this last photo is parked when I decided to write a blog about it. Is it really forgotten, though? Maybe not. You'll probably find the nature reserve, the water tower and the beach on a few 'things to do in Rotterdam' sites, but it's so far off the beaten track, mostly only locals know to go there. Being someone who avoids the 'madding crowd', I suppose that's why I like it.

 In case you're wondering, I'll be posting about the latest boat works next week. For now, here's the Vereeniging with a new coat of paint on her starboard side. Wednesday was a good day. It didn't rain for once!

Enjoy the rest of your weekend allemaal.