Gentbrugge, the final final stop

Saturday, 18th August: that was where I left you last week as I continue to spin out this journey. There's a reason for it quite apart from not wanting to write too much for each post. The beauty of this long drawn out account is that I can relive the holiday every time I write about it. Memory is a marvellous mechanism. We think we've forgotten places, people and events, but they're all in one of the many drawers that make up the storage cupboard of our minds. It only needs a gentle tug to pull out the one we need and all the memories come tumbling out.

The afternoon we arrived in Gent, then, we simply pottered around and relaxed into small jobs and chores: a bit of painting, some judicious touching up of scrapes and scars from rubbing against lock walls and so on. While we worked, we noticed a family paddling towards us on their boards; not a particularly unusual sight, but what really captured my attention and my heart was the sight of 'father' standing on his with his Collie between his legs. As they reached the quay, the dog leapt neatly off and bounced around the other family members as they pulled in too. When they left again half an hour later, she took her place on board with practiced ease and off they went. A very smile worthy scene.

#colliesthatsail

Then as Koos had some well earned down time, I took myself off for a walk. As we were in Gentbrugge, I knew we had to be close to the old sea lock that has long since been closed to water traffic. All this is now diverted round the town by way of the Ringvaart at the Merelbeke lock we'd come through the day before. Years ago, I read Roger Pilkington's Small Boat Through Belgium where he writes about the Gentbrugge lock and the excitement of waiting for the tide to be high enough to go out onto the river (everything was a bit boy scoutish to Mr Pilkington), so I wanted to see it for myself.

I've walked this tidal reach with Koos before, but a bit further downstream. I hadn't seen where it actually reaches the lock. At low tide, there is practically no water in the river here. With nothing to feed it when the water is on the ebb, all that's left are the silted up mud banks and a few puddles. The bird life is wonderful, though; they have it all to themselves and the banks have become so thickly overgrown, the shrubs are inpenetrable. The fascinating thing is that on the town side, the lock looks clean and ready for use. The basin is a large one as formerly, it would have held several barges moored abreast, but these days, the water lies still and the gates are closed, only used by cyclists and walkers. But on the other side lies a wilderness. I walked past the lock gates, but couldn't see anything through the dense bushes. The high tide line was still clear though, as the banks were wet round the roots of the tall shrubs.

What I did manage to reach was the other side of the barrage. On my Saturday afternoon walk, I saw just mud with a thin stream scoring a course between a few puddles. I didn't have my camera with me then, so we went back the next morning and took the photos below when the water was higher. As you can see it's full of debris as it's never cleared, but it was good to see the end point; that place where in former times boats and barges would be racing the tide to get through into the city on time. The untamed nature of the sea Schelde appeals to me immensely and I'd love to bring a canoe up this un-navigable section one of these days although it seems there is talk of building a lock somewhere between Gent and Melle, so it could all change. Anyway, here is a link to an article that shows what the river looks like on the other side of the Gentbrugge lock

Behind the barrage: the railway bridge

At the barrage

 During the evening, we took a walk the other way along the quay of the Visserijvaart that connects the Schelde with the other city waterways. We've never been through Gent at night so it was another first and very lovely it was too. The street lights spilled pools of soft yellow over the liveaboard barges along the quay, some of which are quite incredible in their adaptations from commercial vessel to designer houseboat. The only sound was our footfalls on the stone paving slabs; all very romantic.

The following morning we went for yet another walk but this time round the Gentbrugge neighbourhood. From our mooring, we crossed through the Keiser park which makes up this end of a long island in the Schelde, and over the bridge into the neighbourhood beyond. It was a quiet, grey morning with not many people about. I have a feeling it is an area on the up. While many of the backstreets are rather run down, several houses have been renovated and it looks as if young families are moving in and doing them up. Judging by the number of bikes sporting kiddy seats that were parked outside on the racks, the population is growing too. There is also a commercial business district the other side of the railway line that crosses the river. We found this fine old factory building and chimney there.

Factory building in the commercial area 

And even more arresting, we found an enclosed corner of land with these adorable pigs installed. On the fence was a notice asking us to please not feed them, but there was nothing about why they were there. Still, a charming distraction from the strict lines of the business buildings.

Three little piggies

On the way back to the Hennie Ha, this unusual house caught my eye. I liked its decorative tile work and windows and it seems the owners do too as it was very nicely maintained. Note the regulation bikes out front.

I rather liked this stylish building with its decorative tile work

By midday, we felt we'd explored enough and decided this was it; we'd make the move to get on our way. We thought about stopping somewhere on route to Sas van Gent, but in the end, shelved the plan. The weather matched our going home mood, which was more than a bit grey. I still feel it now – the sadness of realising it was all over for the year. For two pins, I'd have thrown all commitments to the wind and just carried on, but life isn't like that.

We untied, cast off and turned our nose to the north.  As always, it was a pleasure to be on the great sea canal to Terneuzen, and in fact the sun came out to cheer us on our way. Three hours later, we were back in our home mooring, at the end of another wonderful summer of adventures.

Now, though, we have to cross our fingers that the Hennie H will carry us forwards again another year. I won't say more now, but our lovely barge is a bit sick at the moment. Tomorrow we will know just how sick, so keep your fingers crossed for a speedy recovery and have a great week allemaal.

A favourite spot now in Gentbrugge