On March 25th, I flew out of Amsterdam on my first visit back home to South Africa for nearly six years. According to my passport, the last time I was there was in June 2008. I remember it because it was in winter, but the sunshine is even more enduring at that time of year there and I was staying in Postmasburg, a small town in the southern Kalahari. You can read my blog about it here.
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| Moi looking at things at a country market |
This time, I knew I would only be staying in Johannesburg, the city that was my home for more than ten years of my life in South Africa. My purpose in going was not for a holiday as such, but to visit my dearest friend ever, Moira. You can read a bit more about our long-standing friendship on a blog post I wrote about her fiftieth birthday in 2007 (yes, I have been blogging that long!). Without going into details, life's been uphill for my friend in the last two years, so I really wanted to spend some time with her.
It was a wonderful reunion. Moi and I will always just pick up where we have left off, and we spent our time talking, drinking wine, sitting in the sunshine, walking, drinking more wine and catching up as only friends who've been through the mill together can do. It was just wonderful.
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| Sitting in the sunshine at an outdoor cafe - there is no indoor part |
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| Moira's lovely garden - just four months growth from new |
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| Saffron, her lovely and very old Siamese cat |
That
said, the visit also gave me a chance to observe some of the changes that have
taken place in the country since I was last there. Things have changed, and
changed big time. Johannesburg has mushroomed beyond belief. There are suburbs
with large housing estates in places where I used to drive on dirt roads
through open scrubland. My old landmarks have disappeared and it is easy to get
lost in this huge sprawling city. Sadly, most of these housing developments are
more like compounds. They all sit behind high walls topped with electric
fencing. As my friend says, people who have nothing will steal because they
have nothing, but you still have to try and prevent crime.
On that note, there are still huge numbers of
people living in abject poverty in South Africa. However, things are better for many of
them. There are large estates of what are in effect council houses - small low
cost homes built from brick, and all with their own piece of ground. Most of
these come fitted with solar water heaters too - an amazing sight as they are
erected on the rooves of of these houses.
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| Solar water heaters - image taken from the net |
The
problem in South Africa is that it has had a tremendous economic boom in recent
years, in some part due to the World Cup. I know, it sounds strange to think that such a boom would be a problem,
but the improvements for the many and the increasing integration of society have attracted vast numbers of immigrants from neighbouring countries such as
Zimbabwe and Mozambique. This has meant that although the suburbs and homes for
South Africans themselves have been substantially upgraded, the dreadful
squatter camps that marked the years of apartheid have not gone. If anything,
they have grown, but now they are populated largely with immigrant families.
This situation created severe tensions a few years ago with riots and xenophobic conflict.
It is still an issue today and the immigrants live and work in awful conditions
as well as fear of reprisals for taking locals' jobs.
Despite this persisting gap between affluent and
poor, it was good to see the increased level of integration throughout
the city and to know that there is at least a minimum wage for those in proper
employment. Conversely, I was shocked by the spiralling prices. Seven years
ago, I sold my last little corner of Africa for a hundred and forty thousand Rand (in those days, this was about fourteen thousand euros). These days, that same house would cost around eight hundred
thousand Rands, or fifty four thousand euros. That's one heck of a leap up in
prices. I only hope there are enough people now earning this kind of money to
be able to afford a mortgage of that amount. At 10% interest, it must stretch
them to the limit.
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| My last corner of Africa |
It looks like you had a lovely time. Catching up with old friends is always great and you certainly deserved it after all the hard work you've done recently. It's 25 years since I went to South Africa but I do have many connections with the country. Nelson Mandela presented me with my MA and I have also met Desmond Tutu. But more importantly I have very good friends in Cape Town one of whom is actually coming to stay with me in June. I loved Cape Town, so green and lush. But I was there just before the end of Apartheid and the poverty all around was very hard to see. I had hoped that the country would be thriving now and it would be such a shame to see a slide backwards x
ReplyDeleteSo many interesting things in this post, Val. Moira and her garden look lovely, and the weather sunny and yes, quite like Brisbane I'd say. Your old white house looks very special, another part of your life. Your observations are of interest, as we hear very little of South Africa. Funny that, because we were part of the British Commonwealth together all those years. Happy Sunday!
ReplyDeleteThis is fascinating - it's so interesting, how countries adapt to change. It's hard, from our protected corner of the UK, to get a real idea of how things are in other countries - we have only the newspapers to go on, and maybe novels (though these are soon dated, of course).
ReplyDeleteI'm not surprised (though saddened) to know of the wretched disparity between rich and poor - in my experience this seems to be spiralling all over the world.
Fran, you come up with things that surprise me all the time! I never knew you'd been to South Africa, nor that you'd met Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu. How wonderful that must have been. I too hope the country won't slide backwards. The population is now much larger, so there are even more poor folk for those in work to support through taxation xx
ReplyDeleteThank you, Patricia. Yes, I've noticed that Australians don't hear so much about SA. The reverse is not true, but then I think it might be because many South Africans love going to Australia!
Jo, it does seem that way. I still feel deeply uncomfortable about the disparity in SA - always did, but those who have money are more equitably represented now - as are those who have not! It is no longer unusual to see people of European origin begging now.
I am so glad you had such a great visit Val :)
ReplyDeleteThanks Rosemary. It was wonderful to be back, but as I've said, Jo'burg has grown so much, I barely know my way around anymore!
ReplyDeleteIt is so strange to return to a place and see how much has changed. I'm glad you managed to spend time with your friend it's a pity she's so far away.
ReplyDeleteSounds like you had wonderful visit and enjoyed! Great!
ReplyDeleteThank you, Anne. I would love to be closer to Moi, but at least we have FB, whatsapp and emails. I hope I can get back before too long though.
ReplyDeleteThank you, Nas. It was just lovely!
lovely visit Val. So glad you could catch up with your dear friend and country.
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